
Uniform and attitude designed by Malcolm McLaren
Much has been written about the life of Malcolm McLaren this week, who died this week age 64. The obit’s I’ve read mostly talk about how he was a self-obsessed publicity seeker, who mopped up credit for things wherever he could.
Whilst that may be true in part, he did make a huge contribution to popular culture, or counter culture to be more precise. Perhaps a bit like Brian Epstein and the Beatles he read the mood of youth in the country at a specific time and created a product he knew they would buy. I’m reminded of the lyrics of Morrisey in the song Panic: ” Hang the blessed DJ, because the music they constantly play says nothing to me about my life”. People like music they can relate to, 70’s glam-rock and disco didn’t fulfil that need, that was escapism. Punk was reality for young people, as Sham 69, another punk band sung in 1978: ‘If kids are united, then we’ll never be divided’. McLaren’s punk movement swept away all the superficial poppy pop and ‘I wanna boogey wit cha baby’ that had gone before.
Britain of the late 70’s was not a place of optimism, the hope and ambition of the hippy generation 10 years before had largely evaporated. Social mobility was lacking and class still mattered. This was probably when the term ‘disaffected youth’ first came into popular use. As an art school student in north west London McLaren must have seen what was going on around him and invented a new way for young people to express their dissatisfaction with the way that their own country had seemingly failed them. He tapped into the ‘blank generation’ and showed them how to rebel, how to shock, how to challenge the establishment. These were not new forms of protest, to a lesser degree Elvis and the Beatles had done similar. But McLaren took it to a whole new level.
He’d seen what was going on in New York and re-packaged it for London. Working class kids everywhere could adopt the look, safety pins, hair gel and dye, piercings and ripped clothes could be created and individualised. He gave youth a new identity, one which absorbed their anger and frustration. It was no holds barred! I still find it amazing that in Silver Jubilee year (1977) his creation topped the music charts with ‘God save the Queen’, an anthemic song which proclaimed:
God save the Queen
she ain’t no human being.
There is no future
in England’s dreaming
Don’t be told what you want
Don’t be told what you need.
There’s no future
there’s no future
there’s no future for you
At this point in time to criticise royalty was practically a sin. In buying this record the youth could really upset the establishment, this was headline news. McLaren had really shaken things up, corrupting the national anthem was a serious no-no. You could argue that this was the beginning of the end of unfailing deferential treatment of the royal family. The head of state was no longer beyond reproach. It’s widely rumoured that the song easily outsold every other, but the national BBC music chart mysteriously only put it as the number two best seller. The record was also banned from the airwaves, McLaren’s timing was perfect, the song peaked in June 1977, the month of nationwide Jubilee street parties and celebrations. It was clear to many that the state had intervened; to stop the Sex Pistols humiliating the Queen, and to stop this national mood of unrest from escalating. What a triumph for McLaren’s creation!
McLaren moved on and left punk to find it’s own way. The picture above shows what a lasting legacy the movement had, from China to Australia to Camden Lock, punks wearing the same uniform, bearing the same rebellious snarl, can be seen adorning shopping centre’s and high streets. I remember a radio interview not long ago where McLaren said he laughed when he saw punks today. He claimed he created the look 30 years ago and it was supposed to be just another seasons fashion statement, the fact that people still followed it made him laugh, it was so out-dated nowadays.
McLaren later became the first person to introduce scratching and sampling to the UK music scene. I remember buying ‘Buffalo Gals’ in 1983 and listening in awe at this wizardry of mixing two different record together and adding new words from somewhere else. Along with a few American tracks this was the birth of electronic dance music, rap, hip-hop, call it what you will. Buffalo Gals remains one of the most sampled songs of all time, a landmark recording.
So Malcolm McLaren, for all his apparent faults contributed a huge amount to popular culture, even though much of it was very unpopular to those over 25. I often wondered what he would make of hearing God Save the Queen being played today as background music in places like McDonalds and supermarkets. I’ve heard it whilst shopping and it makes me smile, it must have had him in stitches. The counter culture he helped invent is now embraced by major corporate companies because the punks of 1977 are now respectable, home owning, ABC1’s, and big business wants their money. The irony of it!
If only Simon Cowell had the balls of McLaren, how much more original, challenging and creative mass youth culture would be today.